Monday, 30 July 2012

The Riverhill Hotel - Bay Tree restaurant

The restaurant in the hotel is called The Bay Tree, and when we moved to the area we were told it was one of the best Sunday lunches in the area. Now being from a part of West London renowned for its Sunday lunches we are always on the look out, so we booked and went. it was awful. the meat was thin sliced catering pack beef, the roast potatoes were actually deep fried and the vegetables were over cooked. Add to that the fact the hotel was tired and the dining room reflected that,  we consequently had no reason ever to revisit.

All that changed some months ago when the restaurant was relaunched with BBC Masterchef , Claire Lara and her husband in charge. Michel Roux attended the opening night and everything was bigged up for another potential Michelin star for the area.

So SWMBO and I booked for our wedding anniversary on Friday, to give it a go. We arrived at the hotel to find it still tired, and we were directed into the bar to await our table. The barman was very attentive and provided a Bellini cocktail and Bloody Mary while we ordered our meal.

There was a Table d'Hote and a la Carte menu and we selected from the former, at £19.50 for two courses.
First impressions were that the menu's looked a bit tatty and did not seem to be in line with a revamp or relaunch.

We ordered a vegetable soup and mackerel to start, and a steak and a belly pork for the main course. The quality of the meat in both dishes was first class, the rest of the food was nothing special and certainly no better than that served in other local establishments.

The real problem though was the ambiance. I have been into a lot of pub's who re-invent themselves as gastropubs or trendy pubs, but still have the old roll-up smokers and Special Brew drinkers sitting in their usual places at the bar. It's their local and will always be. That is very much the feel of the Riverhill. The clientele were grey pound, who probably came there whenever there was a family party or celebration to recognise.

The staff were good and very attentive, but they can't make up for the surroundings.

I know Claire looked to set up a restaurant in a hotel in Hoylake but that presumably fell through, I do think that she would have been better though trying for her own unit and developing a style and feel which reflected her personality. I also think her menu needs to be more imaginative to compete, even on the Wirral.

Sadly we will not be going back, the hotel environment is just not our cup of tea, and there is no culinary wow factor to over ride that.

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